For value and variety, however, it is hard to go past the namesake dosa royale ($18) — a monster version of the dish designed to serve two people, and stuffed with all three fillings. A whopping two and a half feet in length, it almost looks comical on the 40-seat restaurant's cosy two-top tables, but it is quickly demolished as diners tear off hunks with their hands, dipping them into the accompanying chutneys and soup-like sambar. South Indian food — which tends more towards lighter, spicier dishes than its northern counterpart, reflecting the region's tropical climate with ingredients such as coconut and tamarind — is a rarity in Brooklyn, and word about this welcome reprieve from the cream- and oil-heavy curries that dominate the rest of the borough seems to be spreading fast.
Not usually hungry for Indian before 9:00am, but . . .